"Our guide, Darren 'Capes' Capewell, deflates the tyres of our tank-like four-wheel drive but it's still a bone-jarring ride from Denham to Big Lagoon. Drifts of yellow sand cover the rough track like golden waves and the bow of the vehicle rises and dips like a floundering boat. Snake-bite, sunburn, sandfly: the one malady I hadn't expected to face in the scorched desert of the Peron Peninsula was mal de mar..."
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